Grazer Leben

I've just finished my fourth week in Graz. It was again filled with activities, but not as hectic a schedule as previously. The week's orchestra concert again took place in the fabulous Stefaniensaal in the center of town. The program included the overture and vocal excerpts from "Die Entführung aus dem Serail" as well as excerpts from "I Pagliacci". Some of the singing was good, some was only adequate. The concert ended with a mesmerizing (is there any other kind?) performance of Ravel's "Boléro". It's hard to imagine it being done as a ballet, as was the original intent. It is fun to watch a performance of "Boléro" and pick out who has the solo. At the end of the performance the conductor had the percussionist who played the snare drum take a bow in the front of the stage. It is perhaps not 'difficult', but if you screw up on it you ruin the entire performance.
The experience of living in a foreign country is so different from visiting as a tourist. With time you relax and tune into the rhythms of everyday life. Grazers seem to be relaxed and easy-going. I feel much more comfortable here than I ever did in Germany; Germans tend to me more critical and are apt to express their disapproval if things are not done according to their exacting rules (Ordnung muss sein! is one of their favorite slogans). I've heard the opinion expressed more than once that Austrians are two-faced and insincere. That may be true in Vienna, but it is not the case here. In my month in Graz and surroundings I have always encountered courtesy and helpfulness from the Austrians. Now, if they could only get the laundry thing figured out...