Palais Liechtenstein

I walked further along the Ringstrasse and then north a few miles through a beautiful residential area to the Palais Liechtenstein. This is one of several residences in Vienna of the prestigious Liechtenstein family which now rules one of the smallest countries on earth, the Principality of Liechtenstein, nestled between Austria and Switzerland (and yes, I've been there!). The family's fortunes rose when they helped turn the tide against the invading Turks in the early 17th century and were rewarded generously by the then Kaiser. With time their fortunes and holdings waned until all they had left was one tiny, though scenic, piece of real estate. (The current Prince, btw, is Fürst Hans-Adam II von und zu Liechtenstein.) But while the going was good they built many palaces and furnished them with the best art work to be had. The newly refurbished Palais Liechtenstein houses only a small part of the complete holdings (the rest of the collection is still in Vaduz) and it is considered to be one of the greatest private collections in Europe. The palace itself is magnificent. The main hall, the Herkulessaal, is one of the largest palatial halls in Vienna. My jaw dropped when I entered this enormous room ringed with marble columns. Only the best Italian artists were employed in building and decorating the Palais. Every room has gorgeous frescoes, but the one in the Herkulessaal is stupendous in its size and splendour. After I purchased my ticket in the entry hall (not too shabby either) I then proceeded up one of two grand staircases. I heard what sounded like a large string orchestra playing somewhere in the building. What luck, I thought, there's live music as well! It turned out to be a string trio rehearsing for an upcoming concert in the H-saal. In the marble hall the reverberation was so great that it sounded like an orchestra of a hundred strings. The collection of paintings, sculpture and furniture is exclusively Baroque, mostly Italian and Dutch masters, and all of it the finest quality: Rubens, Hals, van Dyck, Guidi, Canaletto, etc. I have always especially admired the portraits of Anthonis van Dyck. Although his subjects were well-to-do burghers usually dressed in the formal black attire of the period, each individual has a unique personality and it looks like each one is ready to open his or her mouth and speak to you. Van Dyck's work is a miracle of portraiture. The ground floor houses the magnificent library (17th and 18th century collections) and a huge ceremonial carriage. These guys knew how to travel in style too! Behind the Palais lies one of the prettiest formal gardens in Vienna. It is now a public park. (The photo shows part of the garden and the Palais.) My time spent here was alone worth the journey to Vienna.