Bericht II

I thought I wouldn't include any more photos of Graz, but I snapped these of the courtyard across from the Sankt Leonhardkirche, our charming Baroque church just down the street. These buildings are probably mid-nineteenth century. With the roses and old trees it looks like a corner that has been forgotten by time.
A few nights ago we had our grand Gala to celebrate the fortieth anniversary of AIMS in Graz. Instead of holding the opening concert in the Aula of Karl-Franzens-Universität, the festivities took place in the lovely Stephaniensaal downtown (and a big plus was that the S-saal was air-conditioned -- sort of). The program opened with Rimsky-Korsakov's "Russian Easter Overture". It was followed by a few arias sung by alumni of the program who were brought in for the occasion. The first half ended with the "Fledermaus" Overture. The second half continued with various arias and ensembles from the same operetta and ended with the finale thereof. It was all very nicely done.
Meanwhile, the heat wave continues. Today it is supposed to be 35 C (in the upper nineties), with ever rising humidity. Getting on the non-AC tram is like taking a ride in an oven on wheels. Now we know what a Thanksgiving turkey feels like. Storms are promised for this evening and a cool-down. I have yet to hear an Austrian complain about the heat. They just put up with it as a fact of life. I thought of escaping for the weekend to the mountains and looked into the possibilities, but I thought of it too late to make the necessary arrangements. The Salzkammergut, the area of lakes and mountains outside of Salzburg, is just two hours by train. The Styrian Alps are less than an hour north of here. Maybe next weekend...

Bericht aus Graz

I don't intend to report much on my doings here this summer because they are much like last summer. The program is now in full swing. I have a great studio and enjoy my work. I love being in this pleasant and civilized city. Along with coaching I also deliver a series of six lectures on Lied composers and, in celebration of the 40th anniversary year of AIMS in Graz, I am doing a special lecture/recital entitled "Liederkomponisten in Graz". For this event I have had to enlist a number of vocalists to sing the selections I require. But I managed to line up someone for every Lied I want to have sung on the program.
Ever since I got here it has been hot, with no end in sight. The mid 90's (that's 34 Celsius) may not sound too bad to someone in the States, but there is no air-conditioning here. We live in the heat all day. Fortunately, it cools off at night. And Austrians (along with the Germans) have a silly superstition that a draft will make you sick, so they close all the windows. The street cars are stifling. Last night we went out to the fabulous Eggensberger Schloss for the gala reception. The Baroque castle (actually built as a hunting lodge) never fails to impress. The surrounding park is gorgeous. There was a (thankfully) short program in the Planetensaal, the splendid hall. The candles were lit to re-create the proper atmosphere and, of course, they closed all the windows! It must have been 110 in there.
The other day I experienced a little encounter that reminded me how different the Austrians are from the Germans. I went to the university music library, to which we have access, to find some music. I only needed to copy two pages. There is the usual set-up with a copy machine for which one needs to buy a card. Not wanting to go through all that for two pages, I asked the nice man at the desk what the procedure was. He pulled out a card, apparently left over or discarded and said: Here, use this, it still has a few copies left on it. It was a kind and helpful thing to do. From my experience, and that of others, such helpfulness would be unlikely in Germany. There, you would be scolded and told what the rules were. The Germans can be insufferably narrow, unbending, petty and downright rude. I never experience that here in Austria.

Schubert in Graz

Last week I was in the Old City, enjoying an after-dinner ice-cream with a friend before the orchestra concert taking place at the Stephaniensaal, when I noticed a bas relief of Schubert's familiar visage on a building across from where we were sitting with '1827' written under it. Schubert in Graz? I had no idea. A few nights ago I was enjoying an evening with friends in a popular beergarden, the Schuberthof Propeller. I thought nothing of the name because the place happens to be on Schubertstrasse. (If you think I spend a lot of time in ice-cream parlors, beergardens and restaurants, you're right, I do! -- it's part of the fun of spending the summer here.) One member of our party has been coming to Graz for a very long time and remembered the former incarnation of the Propeller as the Schuberthof. He went on to say that Schubert liked to come to Graz because of a special wine made here, and that, as legend would have it, he visited this very beergarden. You mean Schubert sat under these very trees? I asked incredulously. Back home I did a little research on the internet. It is true: Schubert came to Graz, but only on one occasion. The house with the plaque in the Herrengasse must be where he stayed. Here is a detailed account of that visit from the year 1827, copied from the website www.franzschubert.org.uk.

"Back in Vienna much of the summer was occupied trying to promote a performance of his (‘Great’) C major symphony, the score of which he had already presented to the Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde in the previous December. Two copyists had been busy with the immense task of preparing the orchestral parts and the work was put into rehearsal (according to Leopold Sonnleithner – writing in 1861, long after Schubert’s death), but "it was provisionally put on one side because of its length and difficulty".

On Sunday 2nd September Schubert left Vienna by coach in the company of Johann Baptist Jenger for a 24-hour journey to Graz, where they would stay with their host Doktor Karl Pachler. As the fare for this journey by express coach was 9 florins 20 kreuzer AC, Deutsch speculates that "Schubert may have obtained the means for this journey from the proceeds of Opp.75 and 87" (D599 and D713,637,638). Dr Pachler’s wife Maria was an exceptionally good pianist of whom Beethoven was able to write, "I have not found anyone who performed my compositions as well as you do". Whilst in Graz Schubert was present at an opera by Mayerbeer that was not to his liking, but an event of greater importance and appeal for Schubert came only a few days later when the Styrian Musical Society, of which he had been elected an honorary member in 1823, mounted a charity concert in his honour, from which the proceeds would be divided between the victims of recent floods and the widows and orphans of country schoolmasters. At this concert Schubert made one of his very few appearances as an accompanist at a public performance as he almost entirely restricted his piano playing to private gatherings. The pieces of his that were performed were the song Normans Gesang (Scott, D846), the quartet for male voices and piano Geist der Liebe (D747) and the female chorus Gott in der Natur (D757).

The Pachlers invited many friends and keen music lovers to several Schubertiads at which Schubert sang to his own accompaniment, there being no other singer present, and played piano duets with Jenger. He may also have played some of his first set of Impromptus (D899) that he had in preparation."

La vie grazienne

The first full week of teaching has already slipped by in a blur. We had a spell of fine summer weather in Graz, though it was a bit on the warm side. I had tentatively planned a day trip to Maribor for Saturday but rain was assured for the entire area. Slovenia will have to wait for another time.
On Monday (it seems like a month ago) the faculty recital took place in the Sankt Leonhard Pfarrsaal. Some months ago I had the idea of preparing something from the piano four-hand repertoire for this program and solicited the collaboration of one of my fine keyboard colleagues. I chose the Schubert Rondo in A Major, Op. 107 because I love the piece and it is rarely heard. I thought it would add something really special to the program. Mission accomplished. It was the only instrumental work in a marathon evening of singing. The Rondo is from 1827, written in the last year of Schubert's life, that astonishing period where one masterpiece after another flowed from the composer's pen. It exudes that sweetness and irresistible charm that we cherish so much in Schubert's music. If I do say so myself, we acquitted ourselves well. My favorite comment on the performance was: The Rondo was so beautiful I didn't want it to end. My vocal colleagues presented an entertaining array of songs and arias. The concert ended with a light-hearted spoof, à la Victor Borge, of a Rossini overture for piano six-hands.
La vie grazienne. The students, for the most part, have avoided signing up for anything on Fridays. They probably have visions of weekend excursions dancing in their heads, and I don't blame them. After lunch at the Mensa on Friday I and two colleagues betook ourselves to a nearby cafe in the Universitätsviertel (actually in the Schubertstrasse!) for coffee and cake. It was a sweet, lazy summer afternoon. What a pleasure it was to sit outside on a shady terrace, surrounded by beautiful buildings on a quiet street, in the company of colleagues, discussing music and life under the silky blue sky. One of the things we love most about living in Graz is the unhurried pace of life here. In the evening some of the faculty were invited to a wine tasting at the flat of one of the program's wealthy supporters. They live in one of those sturdy well-kept apartment buildings from circa 1880 that boast fifteen foot ceilings and parquet floors. We admired their gorgeous antique furniture, including a Biedermeier writing desk that could have come out of Schubert's own study. There were a few Klimt pencil sketches hanging in the foyer. Afterwards a colleague and I went to a kind of beer garden in the University district to enjoy a light repast. From the street one would have no idea that there was such an extensive open-air area in the back of this eatery. It was packed with university students, all having a great time, but still well mannered. This is something we don't have in our fast food culture, the tradition of bonding with friends over a few glasses of beer, enjoying a leisurely evening in congenial company. We are too busy devouring huge portions of restaurant food, more than anyone needs, or zipping through the take out line at Wendy's.
I knew that Hugo Wolf had spent one term at a Gymnasium in Graz. He didn't like the school and left to go on the Vienna where he enrolled in the Conservatory. Gustav Mahler was his room-mate. I knew that the school was somewhere near the Mensa but I couldn't locate it last summer. The other day I stumbled across it by accident. The plaque on the building was the clue. By some wild coincidence (!) it was in the Hugo-Wolf-Strasse. Duh!!

Farewell to Graz

The summer at AIMS came to a smashing conclusion with the Meistersinger Competition finals and concert. Two preliminary rounds had been held earlier in the summer. There were eight finalists left and two alternates, each of whom sang one aria with the orchestra. The event was held in the Helmut-List-Halle, a kind of all-purpose arena built by one of our most generous supporters. The space was formerly a factory of some sort but it has been nicely converted into a performing space. It must seat well over a thousand people and the place was packed for this concert. What we heard was la crème de la 2% milk. I haven't been particularly impressed with the level of singing in the opera studio this summer, but these ten vocalists were very good. I'm glad I was not a judge. Four external judges were brought in, including Ileana Cotrubas, who had an international career in the 60's and 70's. We heard such diverse selections as "Großmächtige Prinzessin" (Zerbinetta's aria), "Dich, teure Halle", "Ah, fors' è lui", and "Abscheulicher, wo eilst du hin" from Fidelio -- some pretty big stuff! The orchestra was, as usual, wonderful. The one orchestral selection on the program was the first Walzerfolge from "Der Rosenkavalier". After the prizes were rewarded (and the audience was polled by ballot for an Audience Favorite) the orchestra launched into a rousing performance of "Stars and Stripes Forever". The revelation of the evening: who knew that "Stars and Stripes" had a harp part? The poor dear was plucking her fingers raw and, of course, you cannot hear one single note of the harp since the brass and percussion are going full blast. She might have been playing "Lady of Spain" for all we knew.

Today, Friday, is the Catholic holiday of Maria Himmelfahrt (Assumption of the Virgin) and virtually everything in town is closed. I knew that there was to be a performance of a Mozart Mass at Maria Trost in the morning, so I decided to make my way up there. It was a 'Hohes Amt', a high mass and the music, Mozart's "Missa Solemnis" was part of the service. I expected the place would be packed; it was standing room only. It's a good thing I arrived 45 minutes early. I haven't witnessed a Roman rite mass in decades. It is in itself grand theater, with processions, scads of altar boys, sumptuously robed clergyman (actually, I think it was a bishop who was officiating), bell ringing, clouds of incense, lots of standing, sitting, kneeling. I enjoyed the spectacle -- and, it was all in German! Then there was the music. The Missa Solemnis is a work of Mozart's I have never heard and it does not rank as one of his strongest works, but still, the mark of his genius is evident throughout with ingenious harmonic invention, masterful use of solo winds, effortlessly conceived melodies and a sense of playfulness even at the most serious moments. Soloists, chorus and orchestra were all excellent. Hearing this mass in the glorious basilica of Maria Trost was truly wonderful; music and architecture blended into one aesthetic unity. After the service I hiked down to the Heim. There was a thunderstorm during the night and again the forest was fragrant with the smell of pine and wood. I shall miss the beautiful city of Graz and all the wonderful things it has to offer. I have been richly blessed in the experience of this summer. Tomorrow I make my way back to the States via Munich and Washington D.C.

Head for the hills

The pics are another view of Maria Trost and a view of the countryside from the terrace in front of the basilica. After a cloudy morning, the day promised to be a fine one. I opted for a long hike, walking up the hill behind us to Maria Trost. There is a short cut through the neighborhood that takes you right to the forest preserve and the wide trail up the hill. It was alive with walkers, bikers and joggers. What a marvel that you can live in a fairly large city and be in a lovely forest in no time. The walk to M.T. takes an hour and ten minutes. I once more visited the basilica and once more admired its magnificence. One thing I missed on my first visit were two side altars that each had glass shrines containing (supposesdly) the skeletons of saints. They must have been midgets because they would not have been more than three feet tall. It is, to my mind, an utterly grotesque practice of the Roman church to venerate the decrepit remains (and obviously spurious ones in this case) of long gone people. That might have been helpful to prop up the faith of the simpletons in the Middle Ages, but in the 21st century it is absurd. I had the naughty idea of opening the glass casket of Saint Bonus and putting sunglasses on his skull -- Ole Boney lookin' mighty fine in his Foster Grants, grinnin' away in his phoney dentures...

There are several trail options from M.T. I took one headed south. It stayed on the mountain ridge, affording views of the beautiful countryside and passing through a few villages. One never tires of the glorious displays of flowers everywhere, in gardens and in window boxes. Much of the trail was in the forest; after yesterday's heavy rain the air was redolent with the scent of the fir trees and earth. There were some pastures and orchards; the apple trees were heavy with fruit. I discovered a roadside growth of blackberries that had just ripened -- that was my refreshment. Here the bikers and joggers were fewer and it was quiet and still. At a place called Altes Fassl (a beer garden, naturally) I had the option of going down the hill to the next village without knowing whether there would be a bus running (it was Sunday), so I decided to retrace my steps and head back the same way to M.T. (if it was so nice the first time, it would be nice the second), where I could catch the tram back to the Heim. In all I walked at least 16 kilometers (12 miles) -- not a bad hike. I was really tired by the end of it and went to the fabulous restaurant Häuserl im Wald with a group of my colleagues for a fine dinner.

Grazer Leben

I've just finished my fourth week in Graz. It was again filled with activities, but not as hectic a schedule as previously. The week's orchestra concert again took place in the fabulous Stefaniensaal in the center of town. The program included the overture and vocal excerpts from "Die Entführung aus dem Serail" as well as excerpts from "I Pagliacci". Some of the singing was good, some was only adequate. The concert ended with a mesmerizing (is there any other kind?) performance of Ravel's "Boléro". It's hard to imagine it being done as a ballet, as was the original intent. It is fun to watch a performance of "Boléro" and pick out who has the solo. At the end of the performance the conductor had the percussionist who played the snare drum take a bow in the front of the stage. It is perhaps not 'difficult', but if you screw up on it you ruin the entire performance.
The experience of living in a foreign country is so different from visiting as a tourist. With time you relax and tune into the rhythms of everyday life. Grazers seem to be relaxed and easy-going. I feel much more comfortable here than I ever did in Germany; Germans tend to me more critical and are apt to express their disapproval if things are not done according to their exacting rules (Ordnung muss sein! is one of their favorite slogans). I've heard the opinion expressed more than once that Austrians are two-faced and insincere. That may be true in Vienna, but it is not the case here. In my month in Graz and surroundings I have always encountered courtesy and helpfulness from the Austrians. Now, if they could only get the laundry thing figured out...

Architecture

I love being in a city with beautiful, interesting buildings. The Europeans get major points for the preservation of their architectural legacy and poor marks for most of the modern buildings I've seen. Graz is typical. It has some of the ugliest modern buildings I've ever set eyes on, with the Kunsthaus (House of Art) downtown as the prize winner. It's a hideous purple blob, completely alienated from the other buildings around it. And then near Griesplatz (where the laundromat is located), they built a high rise, where all the surrounding buildings are no more than three stories, that is monumentally ugly and is totally out of place. What were they thinking? Aside from that, Graz is exceptionally pretty. The neighborhood where the Heim is located was built up in the late 1800's and there are entire streets of neo Renaissance façades, many with Italianate wooden shutters, and stylish villas. It is a delight to walk around here. One photo is the Seebachergasse which I pass every morning on my way to my studio in the Volksschule Elizabeth; the other (with the flowers) is behind the Grazer Dom (cathedral).

Maria Trost

As I already said, there is plenty in our Grazer backyard to explore. One of the streetcar lines near the Heim runs up into the hills behind us and ends below the pilgrimage church of Maria Trost (Maria the Comforter). It is in fact a Basilica, built in the 18th century, during the lifetime of Franz Josef Haydn. I'm not a big fan of Baroque, but this church is truly magnificent as it was conceived and built in one unified style, Baroque going into Rococo. It sits on a hill, dominating the landscape at the edge of Graz. Stepping into the cool interior from the harsh sunlight was a breathtaking experience. I didn't expect anything quite so gorgeous. Particularly impressive is the ornate organ loft. There is a wide path that goes through the forest from Maria Trost and ends not far from the Heim. At first you think you are in the remotest countryside, but then you discover charming villas and homes in the hills, and have glimpses of the city below. I am liking Graz more and more.

Maria Trost interiors

A view of the main altar, the pulpit and the organ loft.

Everyday stuff

Transportation. There are a lot of things to admire about life in Europe. For one, the transportation system is enviable; trams, busses and trains will get you just about everywhere. Not only is there an extensive tram/bus network in Graz, but they run frequently -- even on weekends. Everything is up-to-date with automated ticket machines and every stop has a digital sign that tells you how many minutes you have to wait until the next tram or bus. Most of us here have purchased a monthly pass ($60) which enables us to ride anywhere, anytime.

Laundry. Just don't get me started! This is one aspect of living here that makes us want to bang our heads against a wall in frustration. There is a laundry room in the Heim, but using the washers and dryers is bizarrely complicated. I can't even begin to describe the process; you need an advanced degree in mechanical engineering to do your laundry there. The concept of 'coin-operated' seems to be unheard of in Austria. Besides the matter of operating the machines (and all I want to do is wash my clothes, not find a cure for cancer!), the washing room in the Heim is booked solid for weeks in advance. The other day I schlepped over to the one and only automat in town, entailing a tram and a bus ride, with my laundry. The place was nice, it was clean, but it was also expensive. Washing and drying two loads cost me over $15, about three times the cost in the States. Maybe I should go the way of some Europeans and simply not wash my clothes or myself at all (and what's up with that?), or I could find a nice spot on the edge of the Mur river and bang my clothes on the rocks.

Food. Here I can go into ecstacies. Austrian cuisine is wonderful. One can eat so well in this town, and usually for a reasonable cost. Every restaurant I have been to so far has offered dishes for vegetarian guests. Some delicious specialties are: Schwammerlrisotto (delicate local mushrooms baked with cheese and rice); Semmelknödel mit Champignon Rahmsauce (Bread dumplings with a mushroom cream sauce); Gemüselaibchen (vegetable cutlets); Spätzle mit Käse (a kind of small pasta variety with grated cheese). You can wash it all down with the wonderful local wines and beers. And for dessert there are the famous Austrian Torten and ice cream creations. Konditerein (café/bakeries) are numerous. The down side is that this luscious cuisine is heavy with cream and cheese. If I'm not careful I may have to reserve two seats for my flight home. I try to walk as much as I can, and occasionally leave out a meal. But going out to eat is so pleasant; usually there are sidewalk tables, or there is a nice quiet garden in the back, and there are interesting colleagues to hang out with. And then there's that great beer. Every restaurant is family owned and is unique -- no franchises like Olive Garden, Applebees, etc. that serve mediocre, boring food and have the ambience of a cardboard box.

Der Stephaniensaal

Yesterday I had a break in my mid-afternoon teching schedule and went down to the shady school playground (this is an elementary school, remember). I planned to do a little reading, but after a while an orchestra rehearsal commenced in what is ordinarily the gymnasium of the school, a room accessible from the schoolyard. Doors and windows were open. The glorious sounds of Beethoven's "Egmont Overture" overwhelmed me; there was no way I could read with such (live!) music pouring into my ears. Entering the rehearsal space I could feel the floor vibrating -- talk about total immersion! Beethoven often sends me into a state of immediate ecstasy; his music possesses a primal power like no other; the human spirit strives for and dwells in an exalted realm in his music. I looked forward with great anticipation to tonight's program.
The first orchestra concert of the season took place downtown in the Stephaniensaal, a concert hall built on the model of the Vienna Musikvereinsaal. It's one of those lavishly ornate, beautiful old European halls. Alas, the best laid plans went awry. I left in plenty of time for the concert, planning to have a light supper downtown, but I ran into colleagues and we were delayed. They wanted to go to a restaurant and suggested a charming little Italian place (run by real Italians!) near the hall. Who can say no to the company of two lovely women and the prospect of great Italian food? Not even I. The upshot was that we arrived at the hall just as the doors were closing for the beginning of the concert, so I heard the "Egmont" through closed doors. It's a good thing I heard that rehearsal or I would have been really disappointed! The rest of the program consisted of excerpts from "Fidelio" and, after intermission, five songs of Joseph Marx and Strauss' "Don Juan". Marx is a native of this area. I know his music only slightly. The songs are written in a lush, late Romantic and quasi Impressionistic style. They are over-orchestrated but very colorful. The vocalists chosen for the evening were of varying degrees of accomplishment. The Strauss is, of course, one of the most formidable tests of orchestral playing. The AIMS ensemble rose to the occasion, playing with finesse and suppleness. It was a superlative performance. Their level of playing astonishes me. It is no wonder that some orchestra members have returned for twenty years in a row to play with this ensemble. I think I would come back here in the future just to hear them!

Another openin', another show

On Monday evening, the first day of lessons and classes, there was a recital showcasing the AIMS faculty. It was supposed to take place in a nearby hall but since it was raining non-stop it was decided that the concert would be moved to the large hall of the Heim. I got to hear my colleagues and enjoy their considerable talents. The program covered the gamut from opera to operetta, cabaret, art songs, piano solos, and music parody (an amusing rendition of Rossini's "Barber of Seville" overture for piano, 6 hands). My own contribution was a performance of a song I had written for basso Gustavo Halley, entitled "Sokrates und Alcibiades" (text of Hölderlin). It is one of five songs I wrote for Gustavo some 15 years ago. He performed them in Kansas City at that time, but not since. So, we dusted off this one song for this concert. It was billed as an "Österreichische Erstaufführing" (Austrian first performance). It sounds more impressive in German than it really is. It was very well received. A few days ago I had an e-mail from another colleague from the Conservatory who is teaching at a summer program in Orvieto, Italy. He informed me that a student of his who is in the program there (a bass I worked with last semester) performed some of the five songs on a concert at the Opera House in Orvieto. When it rains, it pours, apparently. Two European performances of my music in one week -- I don't know if I can handle that! Anyway, the AIMS faculty concert was really very fine. There is an impressive assemblage of talent here.

The Austrians are famously polite, and I can attest to that. The other day I went to a Friseur to have a simple haircut. It was a local place, in the Leonhardstrasse, nothing fancy. The woman who cut my hair was charmingly attentive and solicitous, explaining to me what she was doing at every turn, making every effort to please. She made me look ten years younger. I think I'd like to take her back to the States with me as my personal friseur.

Festive Opening

Now that we have the long process of hearings behind us and have somehow managed to schedule everyone in their classes, lessons and coachings, the AIMS program is up and running. The opening ceremony took place Sunday afternoon in the Aula (grand hall) of the Karl-Franzens-University. The Festival Orchestra played a few selections and there were speeches from representatives of the mayor's office, the Governor of Styria, and the director of the program, Dr. Tom King. The university was built in 1895, in the heyday of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, when little Austria ruled much of Europe. There are many surviving government buildings from the period all over Austria (and the former empire), all done in the handsome classical style. The orchestra players come from professional ensembles in the US and Europe. It is extremely competitive to land a chair, I'm told. Most are young, college age, so it is a very pleasant surprise to hear an orchestra of such professional quality. They began with John Adam's energetic "A short ride in a fast machine". After a few (blessedly short) speeches we heard the "Tannhaeuser Overture". That was wonderfully played -- it just blew me away. After a few more remarks an assembled choir sang "America the Beautiful", an Austrian folk song, "Hoch vom Dachstein an", which was lovely, then the national anthems of the USA and Austria (which I have never heard: "Land der Berge, Land am Stome" -- who knew?). Finally, the orchestra ended the program with a spirited and polished rendition of Dvorak's Slavonic Dance in g minor. I am thrilled to be here and be a part of this!

But the best was yet to come. In the early evening we were bussed over to the other side of town, to Schloss Eggenberg, for the formal reception. This was billed as a high drag event, so everyone was dressed in their best. The Eggenberg Palace was built in the 17th century by the Eggenberg family which, just after it was all completed (it took three generations), promptly died out. And more's the pity as the world was deprived of the possibility of, somewhere down the line, an Eggbert von Eggenberg. The palace is sumptuous Baroque to the rafters and is surrounded by a gorgeous park with magnificent old trees. We assembled in the Planetensaal (which was stifling -- all the windows were closed because of real candles burning in the chandeliers; if you want ambience, you have to suffer for it). This magnificent room is the crown jewel of the palace. We endured a few (again, mercifully short) welcoming speeches and were also treated to a performance of the first movement of Beethoven's Septet, superbly played by select members of the orchestra. There was an elegant buffet and drinks after that. It was a lovely evening. I intend to return to chez Eggenberg someday to visit the museum and explore the extensive grounds. A pride of peacocks struts about the place, the males displaying their finery to anyone who shows even the slightest interest. What odd, but gorgeous, creatures they are.

The photos show part of the facade of the Schloss at dusk; the inner courtyard where we were serenaded by a brass ensemble playing appropriate Renaissance and Baroque selections; and a surreptitious pic of the septet in flagrante delicto. (Gustavo Halley is seated to the right). [N.B. remember that clicking on any pic will enlarge it.]

Saint Lenny

This is the view from my window of the Heim, the steeple of the Baroque church of Sankt Leonhard. In the previous few years I had a view of the Green Mountains of Vermont from my summer abode. I think this is a fair exchange. I made a brief visit to this church the other day. The facade is unmistakenly Baroque, the back part of the nave is Gothic and the front part is modern. Somehow it all works. In the 17th century it was very common for Gothic churches to be re-done in the newer Baroque style by adding ornate altars and faux columns (Baroque is very big on faux). The modern section would surely be a result of damage from WW II. A bomb fell on the church and destroyed part of it. It was an all too common occurrence.
I discovered the Botanical Garden not too far away. I look forward to exploring the hothouses and the gardens. The neighborhood behind our street is lovely. Unfortunately, the Elizabethstrasse, on which the Heim is located, is a very busy four-lane thoroughfare. Vehicles come racing down the street continuously. You take your life in your hands to get across it.

For the past few days we have been hearing all the vocalists (130 of them) and about a dozen pianists. There are 34 singers in the Concert Studio so, gratefully, I didn't have to listen to all the auditions. Everyone sang two pieces of their own choosing. I was pleasantly surprised at the level of singing; many of the participants are younger, but nearly everyone offers something to work with. The staff are very supportive. When one soprano sang "Vilia's Lied" the entire voice faculty spontaneously joined in during the chorus bit at the end of each verse. Occasionally, when someone is exceptional, there will be spontaneous applause from the 25 to 30 people who are listening. There are three coaches for the Concert Studio and we each have a themed recital repertory list. My colleagues here are friendly and gracious. We were easily able to agree on dividing the students so that each of us has at least one mezzo and one male singer. (From that you may gather that there is a preponderance of sopranos -- and you would be right!) I revised my (rather comprehensive) repertoire list to meet the reality of what I have to work with. I discover that I can still put an interesting program together. The 11 vocalists and 3 pianists I get to work with this summer will present a full-length Liederabend just before the end of the program in August.
The building where we will be teaching is just down the street, in a Volksschule (elementary school). It's an old building with huge rooms and 15 foot high ceilings. Brand new pianos have been moved into the rooms. I have a lovely grand in mine. With the high ceilings and absence of any kind of acoustical material, the sound is quite live. The most modest soubrette, Petunia von Pippskveek, will sound like Birgit Nielson singing in these rooms. I continue to acquaint myself with the large staff, meeting some new people every morning at breakfast: coaches, conductors, voice teachers, language teachers, etc. We're a diverse and interesting group, I will say.

Getting Started

Now that my travels are over for a while, my entries will become less frequent. But I intend to give updates on my life and activities here in the city of Graz now and then.
There are three students here from the UMKC Conservatory, one of them an older, experienced soprano with whom I have worked in the past. She arrived yesterday and I took her to dinner at the local cafe so that she wouldn't have to deal with too much new stuff (language, funny money, etc.) She's in the opera program, so I won't be seeing all that much of her. There is also one student who was at the Seagle Colony for two summers. She is one of the sweetest young people I know. I'm glad she's here. My closest connection here, Sarah and Gustavo Halley, have been raving about Graz for years. They think it is the most wonderful place in the world. Granted, the inner city, one of the biggest in Europe, has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, but it hasn't made that much of an impression on me yet. It is slowly growing on me as I get to explore more. Just behind the Elizabeth Strasse, where the Studentenheim is located, there is a beautiful neighborhood of old villas. At the turn of the last century this area was at the edge of the city and the elite of Graz built their homes here. Some are in Italian Renaissance style, some in Jugendstil which, in the decades before WW I, was very big in Vienna. Each villa is surrounded by spacious grounds and gardens. It is a lovely place to take an evening walk as it is quiet and there is little traffic. From a vantage point at the end of this street one can see nearby green hills and fields. Is this the city or the country? Yesterday I took a long walk in the Altstadt and passed the Opera House. If you have read some of my earlier blog entries, you might remember the photo of R. Strauss, G. Mahler and G. Puccini at the side door of the Opera House after the Graz premiere of "Salome". Yesterday I stood on that very spot and wondered what other important figures from the music world had passed over it. On another walk I passed an old house with a plaque announcing that the famous conductor Karl Böhm had first seen the light of day there. The most famous favorite son of Graz these days is Arnold Schwarzenegger, and I hear the Grazers are very proud of him. Local boy does good and becomes Governor of California -- not bad.
Today we had an introductory meeting of the vocal staff and students. There are 130 vocalists (and there is an orchstra here as well). There must be 50-60 faculty/staff, including voice teachers, opera coaches, Lieder coaches, diction coaches (including Russian, French and Italian), stage directors, German language teachers, opera accompanists and Lieder accompanists. It is quite an impressive group (so, what am I doing here?). Compared to the small and personal experience I have had for the past 12 summers, this is a little overwhelming. I don't do well in large groups. Tomorrow we start hearings of all the vocalists for placement in the programs and assignments to upcoming concerts. Of course, 75% of the singers are sopranos. I'm curious to hear what the level of singing is here. Most of the stronger voices will no doubt be in the opera area.

Graz

I took my leave from the lovely Landhaus and tootled down the road to Graz, which is to be my home for the next five weeks. I have never been in the city before, so it was all new to me. The participants, staff and students, of the AIMS program are housed in a very large Studentenheim (student dormitory) which in the winter caters to foreign students at the local university. It's in a nice neighborhood, not too far from the center of the city. I have a single room. It's small, but that's fine with me. The place is in need of a good overhaul, but it will do for the duration of the program. After getting settled and having my internet connection established (there are two computer geeks on call today and tomorrow), I took the car to the rental place to return it. The Skoda had served me well. It has gotten rather warm again. I walked into the center from the rental place. Maybe I was in the worst part of town, but it did not make the best impression. Things are shabby and there is litter about. Dorothy, we ain't in Switzerland anymore. The old city center has some beautiful old buildings, but like nearly every other city center in Europe, it's been turned into a huge shopping mall.
For the past few days the Austrian press has been full of news on the culmination of a huge financial scandal. I saw a program, something along the lines of 'Frontline', on the history of the whole thing (my room in Mils had a tiny TV which received all of two stations). Although I couldn't begin to understand the ins and outs of European high finance, it was a story strikingly similar to the Enron scandal a few years ago in the States: the fat cats at the head of some banking/investment concern fudged the books, lied to their investors and filled their own pockets. Sentencing took place a few days ago. The equivalent of Kenneth Lay was arrested at his villa on the Riviera and spirited back to Vienna. He faces ten years in prison. Just like Lay, he insists that he is innocent and has been made a fall guy. These people are amazing, they just never 'get it': It's always somebody else's fault.
I went out in the evening in search of a place to eat. Just down the street is a modest eatery, Muckenauer Imbiss, with tables outside as well. It was filled with AIMS people. (Why is it one can always spot the Americans?) I ended up sharing a table with a young guy, Yuri, originally from Belarus, who is the concert master of the orchestra here and serves that function with the Charleston S.C. Symphony in the States. A few of his friends, also orchestral musicians (two cellists and a flutist), joined us later. They were all very interesting and it was nice to be hanging out with musicians again. Just like with vocalists, the conversation revolved around gossip of the business, who is doing what, who got what position, etc. Everybody knows everybody. It's a small world.

Summer Travel

If you have come across the recently published book The Rest is Noise by music critic of The New Yorker Alex Ross, you will recognize the accompanying photo. It's a casual shot of Richard Strauss and Gustav Mahler at the stage door of the opera house in Graz, Austria in 1906. Salome had already been premiered in Germany (at the Dresden Hofoper) the previous year, but since the Emperor's censors decided that the subject matter of the opera was too scandalous, the Austrian premiere could not take place in Vienna. Graz was brave enough to take it on, and Strauss conducted. Music lovers came from all over the Austro-Hungarian Empire and beyond to witness the newest, most outrageous creation of the enfant terrible Richard Strauss. It was a huge success.

Giacomo Puccini (with his wife) is also in this photo, with his back to the camera. Isn't it staggering to see these three great composers of the early 20th century in one place? Alban Berg was also in attendance. He saw the opera multiple times and even brought a score along so that he could learn more about the orchestration. And notice how small of stature Mahler is; he was a small man who wrote titanic music.

And what does this have to do with me? It just so happens that I will be spending the summer in Graz. I got an offer to coach a class in German Lieder at the AIMS program which takes place there in July and August. I couldn't think of anything I'd care to do more! Last winter I decided to relinquish my position at the Seagle Music Colony. I had spent twelve seasons there and felt it was time for a change. When thoughts of a long, boring, hot summer in Kansas City loomed I felt intuitively that something really interesting would turn up. And it did. I intend to make use of this blog to report on my travels and experiences in Europe this summer, so do check back. I am trading the Adirondacks for the Alps, a summer of doing opera for a summer of doing Lieder. There's a lot I will miss about Schroon Lake, New York --but I think I can get over it.