Showing posts with label Mariazell. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mariazell. Show all posts

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Mariazell II


Last night I had dinner in the hotel restaurant, a charmingly alpine room with antlers adorning the dark wood panelling. I had something typically Austrian: gebratene Knödel mit Eier, that is, fried dumplings with eggs. The dumplings are sliced and fried in butter, then eggs are added and stirred until scrambled. It is delicious and a treat -- if you don't think about the cholesterol count. Along with it a lovely green salad and a stein of frothy beer. A meal fit for a king! The hotel owner told me that the USA had won the soccer match against Algeria and moved into the next round in the World Cup Games in South Africa. Quite astonishing as soccer is not a strong sport for the Americans. I told him that most Americans would have no idea about the importance of that victory. He said that the American team played well, with style. That is quite a compliment. Soccer is not just about winning, but about how the game is played. It can be graceful and elegant. Soccer is HUGE in Europe and the rest of the world. Only in the USA is it a curiosity.
The small pleasures of life. In that I include breakfast, one of my favorite meals in Europe. They certainly know how to put on a good breakfast here. This morning the buffet included delicious Brötchen, those light, crusty rolls, as well as the more substantial multi-grain breads; there were trays of cold cuts and freshly sliced cheeses, several varieties of jams (and I suspect these were homemade), a huge bowl of fresh yogurt that was probably produced by the cows down the road. (It was, if I may say so, udderly yummy!). In other words, everything is of the highest quality. This is quite unlike the barely edible breakfast buffets one finds in American hotels, with their canned and pre-packaged foods and practically inedible bread. The photo is of the Hauptplatz, immediately in front of the basilica, in Mariazell. As I said, it is picturesquely situated.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Mariazell


I wanted to avoid the mistake I made two years ago when I drove much too long on my first day here and nearly fell asleep at the wheel of my rental car. That is an experience I do not care to repeat. I booked a room at the Hotel Drei Hasen (The Three Hares) in the town of Mariazell, about a two hour drive north of Graz. It is an important pilgrimage destination. The town was founded in 1157 and it recently celebrated the 850th anniversary of its existence. A monk brought a wooden image of the Virgin Mary to Mariazell at that time, claiming it had special powers. And so a legend was born and the superstitions that resulted in the creation of the imposing basilica here. There was first a Romaneque church (burnt down) then a Gothic one (ditto) and then another. In the 17th century the church was remodeled in the Baroque style. Well, most of it was. You can see from the photo of the facade that something is amiss; the central Gothic tower was left intact and two side portions in a Renaissance style were build on to it. (The middle portion is partially obscured by the yellow and white papal flag; the pope visited here a few years back.) The whole thing just doesn't add up architecturally and makes an aesthetically odd impression. Inside is another story. The decor is extravagantly, riotously Baroque. (I didn't snap any pics because I didn't want to disturb the pilgrims. Wasn't that nice of me?) The now ancient wooden image is housed in an elaborate central chapel adorned with tons of gold and silver. I thought of entering into the guest book the following (but I didn't): I entered this church an atheist and left it an atheist; but I did admire the creative genius of the men who created this beautiful place.
There are ample opportunities to empty one's pockets in the church, donating to this and that, buying all sorts of trinkets. It all smacks of the same corrupt practices of the church in past centuries. (Didn't these people ever hear about the Reformation? Why do they think that happened??)
My hotel is an old building with spacious rooms and high ceilings that has been modernized. It even offers free wi-fi -- can't get more with it than that! The setting of the town in the North Styrian Alps is gorgeous. If Mariazell weren't the pilgrimage center it is it would be just another picturesque town in the alps.