Santorini

They saved the best for last. Truly. Santorini (also known as Thira) is one of the most unique and spectacular places in the world. I was here once before, 37 years ago, and remembered it fondly. Once you have seen it you can never forget it. The present configuration was created about 3,600 years ago when the entire island blew up (see previous note on Crete) in an unimaginably massive volcanic eruption. The center of the island sank under the sea leaving a broken circle, about two thirds of one, several hundred feet high. The villages are perched on the top of the rim. When first entering the caldera you think there might have been a considerable snowfall on the rim, but then you realize that it is a string of white washed houses. Only small ships can use the tiny port so we were shuttled over in a tender. There are three choices for getting to the top: either the cable car (built by the Swiss and costing only four euros to ride one way), by way of donkeys and horses (charming I'm sure, but not recommended) or hoofing it up under one's own steam. I took the cable car up and hiked down (strenuous but, oh my, the view!). The vista from the top leaves one speechless. There were four cruise ships in port (and again that darned Equinox!) as well as a few smaller sailing vessels. There is an uninhabitable island in the middle of the caldera, created out of lava that came up from the sea, and a few other small islands outside. The other side of the Santorini slopes down to the sea. The beaches sport black volcanic sand. Try walking on that on a hot day! Some people come to stay for a while despite the limitations of the island. There are some fine hotels here. Being on Santorini is like being in another world. Sunsets are said to be stupendous. We had to be back on board just before the crepuscular event. When the sun had set and it was dark it looked like the town, now a string of lights, was hovering in mid-air, an utterly enchanting sight.
During the night we sail through the wine-dark sea and arrive in Pireaus early in the morning. We have to vacate the ship by 8 AM. On the one hand I am sad that this magical voyage is coming to an end. Every day brought new wonders to enjoy. I loved being pampered at every turn and dining on superb food and meeting some interesting people aboard ship. On the other hand, I am getting tired of the crowds at the sites, waiting in lines for this and that (although everything was well organized aboard ship), getting up at 5 AM to make sure I didn't miss the departure of the excursions. That part was not relaxing. I now have three days in Athens to look forward to before I return to Lausanne.
Tourism has become such a huge industry. Ever more people want to visit the same places. And some sites, like that of Knossos, are relatively small and can only absorb so many visitors at one time. The Celebrity Equinox, the giant that followed us around this week, is only one of many ships of its size that are being built. I think Celebrity alone plans four or five more monster cruise ships. Where will it all end? When will the local inhabitants of these fragile islands say: Enough!