Friday, July 2, 2010

Cruisin' on the lago




My friend J.J. wanted to get an early start back to Lausanne, so we left for the Lugano stazione right after breakfast. On the way back I stopped at a small lake on the Italian side of the border, in the mountain pass, the Lago di Piano. (And is there a Lago di Fortissimo, perhaps? Or a Lago di Saxaphone?) It is a very small lake, by New England standards a pond. The guidebook I consulted said that one could walk entirely around the lago. They lied. Still, it was nice to have a bit of a walk in such a beautiful spot.
I wanted to spend some time in one of the several villas on the lake, one with a botanical garden, but it is just too hot to be traipsing about. Instead, I purchased a day ticket (at the reasonable price of eleven euros} for the lake ferries which allows one unlimited travel to a half dozen towns in the mid-lake area. I sailed Cadenabbia-Bellagio-Varenna-Menaggio and return. (There is no connection between Menaggio and Cadenabbia or I could have completed the circle.) It is really hot, in the low 90's, weather only for mad dogs, Englishmen and tourists to be out and about. Spending the afternoon and early evening on the water was a good idea. Lago di Como is stunningly beautiful.
I know some of my readers are very curious to know what we had for dinner last night in Menaggio. It was a memorable meal. J.J. ordered lake trout which was lightly fried in a sesame batter and served with chard sautéed in butter. I had a saffron risotto. As a primo we both had a superb insalata mista. The only option for dressing is virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. What else would you want to put on such a beautiful salad? Surely not the gloppy dressings that Americans seem to love, laced with sugar and salt, smothering the delicacy of the greens. J.J. ordered us a bottle of fine local Merlot. For dessert I enjoyed a 'penna cotta al mou' which is a fine soft cheese, something like ricotta, with caramel drizzled over it. Heaven!

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