Monday, June 28, 2010

Unsere Liebe Frau



On the other side of the Hauptmarkt is the Frauenkirche. The outside may be wearing a chador, but the inside is accessible. This is the one Catholic parish church in this overwhelmingly Protestant city. The brief history of the building states plainly that, in the 14th century, the Hauptmarkt was the location of the Jewish ghetto. There was a pogrom, most of the inhabitants were killed and their synagogue was destroyed. (Vicious attacks like this one occured all over Europe for centuries encouraged, if not ordered, by various 'Christian' rulers, and not just in German lands.) This church was built on the very site of the former synagogue, "to the glory of god". The sheer hypocrisy of these Christians is staggering. Anyway, the Frauenkirche is a jewel of Gothic style, much smaller than its neighbors. After the Reformation it became Protestant but reverted to the Roman church when this area became part of Bavaria in the early 1800's.
I confess. I went to Starbucks the other day. It is not that I am such a big fan, but I forgot how awful German coffee can be -- bitter, bitter. I saw several Starbucks in the city. Maybe the Germans, now that they have unravelled the mysteries of making a decent salad, can get the hang of brewing a decent cup of java. Two things I will not miss: driving through the narrow streets of the Altstadt to get to my hotel, negotiating one way streets, pedestrian zones, bicyclists, etc. I was so frustrated yesterday that I inadvertently entered a one way street (clearly marked, but I missed the sign) and had to back up half a block. People stopped to stare and no doubt thought: Who is that idiot Austrian who can't drive? (I have Austrian plates.) Let them think what they will. The other thing is getting in and out of the Agneshof parking garage. It is a sardine can. The spaces are so small you need a shoe horn to get into them. I saw many traces of paint on the walls where it had been scrapped off of other vehicles and I was sooo careful not to leave any bits of the fire engine red Polo behind.

No comments: