Tallinn, Estonia

The bus stops for twenty minutes in the Estonian town of Pärnu. It looks like an interesting place. (I read later that it is well worth a longer visit.) Estonia has a more cheerful, open aspect to it. The clouds drift across the sky; there are many lakes and a great deal of forested land. Is it just the splendid summery weather that lifts my spirits? I like it a lot. We arrive in Tallinn, the capital, about 2 PM. I am able to leave my luggage at the ferry terminal and spend a few hours exporing the city. It is also quite old, with ancient ramparts, buildings and church spires. The Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky is on the top of a nearby hill; very pretty. It is now used as a concert hall. (The Soviets discouraged any practice of religion and turned most churches to other uses.) In a café I witness another incident of anti-Russian retaliation. The women at the counter refuse to serve an elderly Russian-speaking woman because she doesn't speak Estonian to them. I can make out the phrase 'no Russian'! Many Russians have lived in the Baltic states for generations and have never bothered to learn a single word of the local language. Now the tables have turned: you don't speak our lingo, you get no service. It is sad for the elderly lady, but I understand the dynamic of the interaction. The resentment lies very deep.
Embark on the Queen Balanga, the Estonian ferry that will take me back to Germany, at 10 PM. It is an older ship that has only recently been bought and put into service here. The ship is a bit shabby, but comfortable enough. I share a cabin with two Estonian bikers. As we don't share a common language there is no conversation. We're at sea for two nights and one full day. It's a boring trip. I remember a similar boat trip that I took from Helsinki to Stockholm many years ago. We sailed through an archipelago of thousands of islands. That was enchanting. This is just open water.