Monday, July 6, 2009

Innichen/San Candido











Another fine summery day, my last in the Tyrol. It is to be a walking day. I am told that the path to the next town due east, Innichen, is a nice walk. It's about six km each way. By a happy coincidence, something I couldn't have planned better, the three day Volksfest winds up today in Innichen. That means there will be a carnival atmosphere, lots of music and, to top things off, a Grosser Festumzug, a big parade. Oh boy! There are two foot paths to Innichen, one on either side of the valley. The one I take in the morning starts in Toblach and ascends an asphalted but little used road. Much of the way is forested. There are a few working dairy farms along the way and some lovely old alpine houses. Innichen is the last big town in Italy before the Austrian border. It's bigger than Toblach and quite attractive. There are two old churches, one behind the other: a Romanesque church (12th century) and an exquisite Baroque one. The former is well-preserved and it is dedicated to Saint Candidus, whence the Italian name for the town. Innichen is jammed with people. There are six different venues where various musical groups are playing. Booths are set up to sell all kinds of food and drink. Everyone is out for a good time. The weather is perfect. What a great day to be here! The parade starts at 11:30. It's the battle of the marching bands, about a dozen groups, all in Tracht (regional costume) and a few modest and amusing floats. There are a lot of Italians here -- I guess they enjoy a 'spettacolo' as much as anyone -- although there is a definite German tone to the event. The music, the gorgeous costumes, the mountains, the genuine good spirits of the people all blow me away. Who woulda thunk that oom-pah music could bring me to tears? When the parade is over it's back to eating and drinking. I try a local specialty called 'Strauben' which is a sweet batter drizzled into hot oil to create a twirled mess of fried dough. It is topped with powdered sugar and Preiselbeeren, something akin to our cranberries but more delicate. Strauben is delicious. Again and again I hear the performers sing: "Mein Tirolerland, wie bist du schön!" -- My Tyroler homeland, how beautiful you are! I'll drink to that!
The way back is also partially through woods. It's a good thing because I've had too much sun. About half way one comes across the Drau-Ursprung/Sorgenti di Drava = the source of the Drau River. It begins from a modest spring and flows east througn Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, and Serbia where it joins with the Danube to eventually flow into the Black Sea. Such a modest beginning and such a long path. My week in the Tyrol has gone by very quickly. I have had a wonderful time here and hope to return for more glorious hiking in future. One photo shows the front of the Baroque church, the other both churches and the main square before the parade. The third photo is of the lovely organ loft in the Romanesque San Candido. I am not sure, but I would venture to guess that one church serves the Italian speaking population and the other the German.

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